Best Aluminum Paint

 

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Best Aluminum Paint

 

There are many different kinds of aluminum based paint. Most are enamel paint. The toughest, best bonding and most durable aluminum paint is Aluthane, a moisture cured urethane (MCU). MCU coatings are used in places where 'by the book' preparation is not possible (generally 'sandblasting'). MCU coatings are thin, 1 part, solvent based paints that 'cure' by taking moisture from the air.

For serious sealing always apply two coats.

A gallon of Aluthane covers about 400 sf. It will handle temperatures over 300 degrees and can be applied down to about 40 degrees. Use it on metal, weathered fiberglass, wood etc. as a primer and sealer or as an attractive gray/silver/aluminum top coat.

After you open the can, it (any mcu coating) does not store well in the can unless you displace the air in the can. This is often a squirt of propane etc. from a shop torch or camp stove. To keep the can lid from gluing itself to the can (assuming a few drops of aluthane in the rim of the can) use a piece of Saran Wrap (tm) between the lid and the can.

"A very pleased user of Aluthane and your epoxies" (primer on old cars)

 Craig - Houston, TX - Oct. 2016

- A top problem solving coating - best seller


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Paul-

After prepping, there was still some residual paint that was welded on and couldn't be removed without stripper. Since the product is designed for 'less than perfectly prepared surfaces', it didn't require messy stripping chemicals or excessive prep work.

The Aluthane has an nice aluminum sheen and cures very hard. It has a watery consistency and spreads easily. It filled pinhole size gaps, making the surface airtight. I was able to mimic the original paint scheme because of Aluthane's aluminum color. I used it as a primer and topcoat. Aluthane made my 50 year old boat look new again!

Very satisfied, Matt


Tom wrote (10/2008):

Thanks Paul; here are a few comments on the Aluthane.

I was looking for a product to use on the 4" steel pilings on a newly constructed boat house. I wanted to extend the life of the piles and the overall structure since the boathouse cost roughly $50K to build. Aluthane was recommended. At the time, the water was down around three feet from normal pool so I was able to paint roughly 4 feet of the piling that was exposed. For prep, I used a simple paint scraper to smooth off the rough, loose rust and then a wire brush. I did not put a lot of effort into preparation. Total prep time per piling was no more than 3-5 minutes. I used a 3" roller and rolled the Aluthane on. Again, very simple and quick. The Aluthane will run, so you do have to roll it on and smooth any runs with another quick roll over.

The results looked great. Basically a shiny aluminum look. When the lake came back up to pool, I kept watch for any signs of deterioration and saw none 12 months after application. The water went back down even further in the last few months, so I was able to inspect much closer and even apply the Aluthane further down the pilings. There was absolutely no rust through with 12-15 months of submersion.

The Aluthane surpassed all expectations and I now am in a wait and see mode on how long it will last before corrosion...no signs yet. I know its not advertised for submerged applications, but I can attest that it works very well for at a minimum of one year in fresh water applications. Excellent product that requires very little prep and seems to be very effective.


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TO: info@epoxyproducts.com

Hi, I train spray painters in Queensland Australia the technical aspects of Polyurethane paint. However some people just can’t get the difference of the two major types. Polyester vs Acrylic. I would like to use your excellent discussion paper in my training as an unbiased view and give credit to author Paul Oman and your company. http://www.epoxyproducts.com/lpu.html 

 Regards --Andrew (11/14)


 

the "Epoxy Guru"

 

Paul Oman - MS. MBA

A.K.A. “Professor E. Poxy”  -- "The Old Goat"  -- "Epoxy Guru"

epoxies since 1994

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