Gluing With Epoxy -
Things About Epoxy Glue
You Need To Know
"Epoxy Guru"
"How To" help
Epoxy help and information
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Gluing With Epoxy - Things About Epoxy Glue You Need To Know
Epoxies make outstanding glues but you cannot use them the way you use 'ordinary' glues.
A good glue, epoxy or otherwise, is thick enough to stay in place.
So, to glue with epoxy you should use a thickened epoxy. Add thickeners to regular thin epoxy, or simply use an epoxy paste or putty (such as the Kevlar (tm) and feldspar ceramic thickened Wet Dry 700 epoxy - which can even be applied and used underwater or on wet surfaces).
With epoxies it is important you don't clamp tightly or you will squeeze all the epoxy out and the bond will fail. This is different from other types of glue which should be clamped tightly. I know one person that sprinkles a little sand or ground walnut shell into the epoxy he uses for sanding. The sand provides a tiny gap and prevents all the epoxy from being squeezed out should he over-clamp the two surfaces he is epoxy gluing.
Also note that while epoxies may feel dry after a full hours, full adhesion takes at least 48 hours and full cure about a week. Don't "test" your epoxy glue joint for at least several days after gluing.
Call Paul (the Epoxy Guru) at 603 435 7199 anytime to talk more or to order these materials
Related Links:
Progressive Epoxy Polymers. Inc - HOME PAGE
epoxy glue web page - GLUE PAGE
buy Wet Dry 700 epoxy paste (you can even glue underwater) - EPOXY STORE
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TO:
info@epoxyproducts.com Hi, I train spray painters in Queensland Australia the technical aspects of Polyurethane paint. However some people just can’t get the difference of the two major types. Polyester vs Acrylic. I would like to use your excellent discussion paper in my training as an unbiased view and give credit to author Paul Oman and your company. https://www.epoxyproducts.com/lpu.html Regards --Andrew (11/14) |
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Paul-
After prepping, there was still some residual paint that was welded
on and
couldn't be removed without stripper. Since the product is designed for
'less than perfectly prepared surfaces', it didn't require messy stripping
chemicals or excessive prep work.
The Aluthane has an nice aluminum sheen and cures very hard. It has a
watery consistency and spreads easily. It filled pinhole size gaps, making
the surface airtight. I was able to mimic the original paint scheme
because of Aluthane's aluminum color. I used it as a primer and topcoat.
Aluthane made my 50 year old boat look new again!
Very satisfied, Matt
Tom wrote (10/2008):
Thanks Paul; here are a few comments on the Aluthane.
I was looking for a product to use on the 4" steel pilings on a newly constructed boat house. I wanted to
extend the life of the piles and the overall structure since the boathouse cost roughly $50K to build. Aluthane
was recommended. At the time, the water was down around three feet from normal pool so I was able to paint roughly
4 feet of the piling that was exposed. For prep, I used a simple paint scraper to smooth off the rough, loose rust
and then a wire brush. I did not put a lot of effort into preparation. Total prep time per piling was no more than
3-5 minutes. I used a 3" roller and rolled the Aluthane on. Again, very simple and quick. The
Aluthane will
run, so you do have to roll it on and smooth any runs with another quick roll over.
The results looked great. Basically a shiny aluminum look. When the lake came back up to pool, I kept watch for
any signs of deterioration and saw none 12 months after application. The water went back down even further in the
last few months, so I was able to inspect much closer and even apply the Aluthane further down the pilings. There
was absolutely no rust through with 12-15 months of submersion.
The Aluthane surpassed all expectations and I now am in a wait and see mode on how long it will last before corrosion...no signs yet. I know its not advertised for submerged applications, but I can attest that it works very well for at a minimum of one year in fresh water applications. Excellent product that requires very little prep and seems to be very effective.
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TO:
info@epoxyproducts.com Hi, I train spray painters in Queensland Australia the technical aspects of Polyurethane paint. However some people just can’t get the difference of the two major types. Polyester vs Acrylic. I would like to use your excellent discussion paper in my training as an unbiased view and give credit to author Paul Oman and your company. https://www.epoxyproducts.com/lpu.html Regards --Andrew (11/14) |
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Marine Catalog |
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home
page of marine catalog section (blue background)
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Section One
MARINE - CLEAR EPOXIES
Section Two FILLERS THICKENERS ADDITIVES
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MASSIVE BOAT HOW TO - ISSUES - HELP WEB LINK SITE |
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