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Here is a simple plan for dealing with rotten wood in non-structural locations.
1) scrape out as much of the rot as you can.
2) let the wood dry as much as possible. Use a heat lamp or similar if practical.
3) optionally you can also pour rubbing alcohol into the area. The alcohol will combine with the water and evaporate away much quicker than the water. It will also help to kill bugs, fungus etc.
4) seal the wood with a thin epoxy that can bond with damp or wet wood. Our solvent free LOW V epoxy works great. You can also use our solvent thinned epoxy sealer, ESP 155. If you heat the wood first with a heat lamp, the cooling surface will draw the epoxy deeper into the wood. Keep adding new epoxy until it has saturated the wood.
5) fill the void with: spray foam, blocks of wood, more epoxy (like our Wet Dry 700 epoxy paste)
- A top problem solving coating - best seller
6) finish filling the void with exterior putty from the hardware store and sand into the proper shape.
7) seal the top of the repair / putty / fillers with more of the ESP 155 or Low V epoxy to keep the 'fillers' from exposure to rain, snow, etc.
- A top problem solving coating - best seller (low v AND esp 155)
8) paint to match the surrounding wood.
"The Wet Dry 700 epoxy paste worked great for patching for the rotted dingy transom. I cut out the rot, fitted new oak pieces, and patched with the Wet Dry 700 epoxy. Easy as pie." -- John 1/15 WET DRY 700 INFO
CUSTOMER EXAMPLE
ROT REPAIR
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CUSTOMER FEEDBACK: "Hello: I would be glad to
help someone else work through this seemingly daunting
task.
I think what really helped me was to realize that this entailed a lot of very doable individual tasks , all within the skill level of most handymen or women. One other note: patience is required.
Step 1/ remove all rotted wood. In our case , this was about 1/2 the diameter of our 12" logs. I found the best tool to remove the rotted wood was a 12"or 14" electric light duty chain saw.
Step 2/ Then I sprayed anti-freeze on the remaining wood to stop the rot. I let the logs dry for several days and then repeated the anti-freeze spraying. Again, I let it completely dry for several days.
Step 3/ I soaked the remaining logs with Low V 2-part epoxy ,let it dry for a couple of days and repeated the process. I used a paint brush to apply the Low-V , and generously applied it. Use a throw-away paint brush each time , because it will be unusable after use.
Step 4 / I then cut dimensional lumber to replace the rotted wood . I used 2" x ? ,because they were cheap and convenient to work. I would cut each one to fit individually . So the first one was a 2" x 12" , set vertically. Then the next board was a 2" x 8" , then a 2" x 6" , and ultimately a 2" x 4". Then I sandwiched them all together , and deeply counter-sunk the screws so I wouldn't interfere with my rounding off the exterior of the wood. This may sound confusing , so let me describe what the end result looked like. Envision a 12" log 3' long. Half of this log was rotted and removed. So my sandwich to replace the rotted wood was a 2" x 12" , 3' long , a 2" x 8" 3' long , a 2" x 6" 3' long and a 2" x 4" 3' long. These would all be set vertically and attached together with a couple of long screws [ or you could glue them, I would think]. Before you attach them together you can remove the excess material with a circular saw , a band saw or your chain saw. The end result is a sandwich of lumber about 6" wide and 3' long , with the outside diameter being a 12" radius to match the 1/2 log remaining. Then I screwed this sandwich to the remaining log [ I used screws made by Fasten-Master Timber Lok. These are not cheap but are very high quality].
Step5/ I mixed a batch of Wet/Dry 700 Epoxy , and slathered it over the sandwich and between the sandwich and the remaining original log. If it suits you to thicken this material , you can use sawdust or sand . I found the sawdust thickener to be more user friendly to the last step of removing any wood that doesn't look like a log. The sand is really hard on whatever tool you use to dress up your log. I found the best tool to use for the sculpting of you log is a grinding wheel used on an angle grinder.[ It is called "Gallahad" ]. A caution: This is a really aggressive tool and you need to hang on. But you could use any tool you feel comfortable with : Body grinder , chain saw , disc sander or even files. I wish you well.
One last word : Paul Oman (owner of Progressive Epoxy - 603 435 7199) is a very knowledgeable man , and freely shares his knowledge. His products are high quality and as represented. And he answers his phone. Ralph" Purchase Wet/Dry 700 epoxy paste and Low V low viscosity epoxy at EpoxyUSA.com |
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Related Links:
all about rot - ROTTEN WOOD
all the information on this page and lots more!
Another wood rot site
Progressive Epoxy Polymers. Inc - HOME PAGE
epoxy repair links master page - REPAIR PAGES
GOOGLE SITE SEARCH - Click here
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TO:
info@epoxyproducts.com Hi, I train spray painters in Queensland Australia the technical aspects of Polyurethane paint. However some people just can’t get the difference of the two major types. Polyester vs Acrylic. I would like to use your excellent discussion paper in my training as an unbiased view and give credit to author Paul Oman and your company. https://www.epoxyproducts.com/lpu.html Regards --Andrew (11/14) |
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